I love the view. People out there, as they went off on pilgrimages, camped out on beaches and wild places, seeking the soul of the waves, a communion of travellers.
In a way, I always felt attracted to this kind of situation because it's like going back to my roots. Styling, grooving, partying, soul surfing. It’s as intangible as trying to define falling in love. It’s like poetry and art, music and light, a moment frozen in time. Everything about it is soulful. There's no money in the world that could pay for the feeling that I’m going through, every time I arrive on one of these beaches. Its about being free, about that warm, fuzzy feeling with a couple of buddies, nobody hassling, just having fun, styling and enjoying life. It seems to me as if you're in a transition point of energy, a bit like the stories of people surfing along the shore – about a wave that was created thousands of miles away and it hits the beach and breaks from top to bottom…. That's the point when the energy changes. You get inside this wave, inside the stomach of the wave, and you're riding along at the point where its energy changes from one form to another, you get completely filled with some kind of cosmic energy. If you can make it out in one piece again, it feels like getting born again, and each time you do it, it's like a re-entry into the world. All the people in this book share that same seriously funky and committed feeling, with instinct and attitude. It’s as if everything's happening so fast, but at the same time it's kind of slow motion, it seems as if time has expanded…
I love this feeling, endless summer, translucent, liquid, as beautiful as clear reef water...
In a way, I always felt attracted to this kind of situation because it's like going back to my roots. Styling, grooving, partying, soul surfing. It’s as intangible as trying to define falling in love. It’s like poetry and art, music and light, a moment frozen in time. Everything about it is soulful. There's no money in the world that could pay for the feeling that I’m going through, every time I arrive on one of these beaches. Its about being free, about that warm, fuzzy feeling with a couple of buddies, nobody hassling, just having fun, styling and enjoying life. It seems to me as if you're in a transition point of energy, a bit like the stories of people surfing along the shore – about a wave that was created thousands of miles away and it hits the beach and breaks from top to bottom…. That's the point when the energy changes. You get inside this wave, inside the stomach of the wave, and you're riding along at the point where its energy changes from one form to another, you get completely filled with some kind of cosmic energy. If you can make it out in one piece again, it feels like getting born again, and each time you do it, it's like a re-entry into the world. All the people in this book share that same seriously funky and committed feeling, with instinct and attitude. It’s as if everything's happening so fast, but at the same time it's kind of slow motion, it seems as if time has expanded…
I love this feeling, endless summer, translucent, liquid, as beautiful as clear reef water...
-Verne-
